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By Contributing Editor Philippe Perisse de Montchenu, Fashion Reporter and Consultant
THE 800 DOLLAR QUESTION: THE SUIT
THIS MONTH I needed a suit. So, after trying all the quick and cheap options, I started to think that it would be a good idea to invest in THE suit.
You know, this classical and basic piece that one needs in ones wardrobe. I once had a cool Gucci summer suit…but, as a rule of thumb, if it is perfect for yachting at IBIZA, it is not ideal for professional interviews.
What is this all about? Just like a traditional tailor, you can choose the fabric (of top quality, bien sûr, such as Loro Pianna's wool) and the accessories you want to go with it--buttons, lining, stitching yarns, and pocket. But then, here is the difference with to-measure suits: In order to define the volume and cut, you try on ready-made samples of suits. The “tailor” then takes your measurements and writes down the necessary modifications in order to adapt this form to your size.
Walking down the street, in St. Germain area, in the 6th, I found Artling. A newly founded demi-mesure house owned by Mr. Martial. Artling is the contraction of art of tailoring. The fresh-tailor-wannabe, used-to-be-banker, and tired of trading, he decided to live his passion. After an accelerated education at the French tailoring syndicate, he opened his own store in collaboration with a tiny factory in Porto, Portugal.
After a cool chat at closing time, topped-off with a glass of Chivas, I was seduced by this modern approach of a very traditional art craft.
The day after, I made an appointment to create my own suit. It was very exiting! I chose a beautiful Loro Pianna’s twill, super 130, in deep navy blue. I wanted something very simple: just one button, a thin collar, two pockets, light shoulders. And a week later, instead of three weeks of regular treatment--and with an extra of $150--I got the suit on time for a first retouching. I was quite happy with the result, though everything was not quite perfect yet. Three short days after that, the sartorial masterpiece was ready for my interviews. I still want to do a few more finishing touches, but the costomer service is really efficient, and I'm confident that I will get something as perfect as can be, and for a very reasonable price.
In Martial's store you have also a great selection of knitted ties, scarves, underwear, socks, suspenders and cufflinks--all the chic and retro accessories that all real gentlemen cares about. If you come for a suit, you cannot resist and can’t help buying one thing or the other to accent your look.
Let yourself be tempted. Making your own suit is an addictive pleasure, and something you definitely should try. Wearing something unique, in whose creation you participated, is quite a gratifying feeling.
Price for a demi-mesure Artling suit: $800.
But, before you run out, here's a...NEWSFLASH: FOR JAPAN
If one single initiative cannot change the world, one plus another lights hope. Although the fashion industry--and the rest of the world--is still traumatized by what happened in Japan, some designers are taking action! Head of his own very confidential cologne company (Technique Indiscrete) and also the new artistic director of the reborn fashion house Paquin, Louison Libertin has developed a cologne in solidarity with the victims of Japan...
For Them
Made to help Japanese people in the time of crisis, this cologne has been specially made for the town of Minami Sanriku, which disappeared after the Tsumani.
Louison really wanted to act and help the victims of the tsunami so he created this Lavender-based cologne (50ml for 35€ plus shipping). Act fast it is a limited edition of only1000 bottles!
"For Them" is already available on the web site of Technique Indiscrete. All the profits of the sale will go to the authorities of the town Minamisanriku.
Coming soon: Louison’s interview.
Philippe Périssé de Montchenu lives in Paris where he works as a brand consultant and fashion reporter. Having experience as an assistant artistic director, supply chain manager, collection coordinator, and export manager, he is presently pursuing a post-graduate degree at the Institut Francais de la Mode.
